Mass Tourism – Us vs Them

Mass tourism has become a taxing and ugly thing for many countries, cities, and famous sites around the world. With the advent of the Internet, they say the world has become a smaller place. Add the ease of air travel and other modes of transportation along with human curiosity, and one can see why the masses have ventured out from their own backyards to seek out unique and fantastic places to visit.

Cathryn and I were ‘travellers’ long before we met each other. She was lucky enough to do several trips with her family. Mine was larger without the money for that kind of thing but my brother and I managed a trip to Florida with my mother and her boyfriend once we had a job and were able to pay our own way. After securing my career as a police officer, I used my pay cheque for a motorcycle trip back down to the sunshine state.

My wanderlust and thirst for travel continued with trips throughout Canada, the U.S., Europe, Mexico and the Caribbean Islands. I did one cruise because of the unique ports of call but didn’t like scheduled meals and events on board, as well as the process of trying to get hundreds of people on and off the ship every time it docked. We relied on travel agents and ‘packaged’ tours back then, with our absence from work limited by allotted vacation time.

Retirement rewarded me with unlimited time to travel. One or two-week vacations became a month or more, allowing me to venture further abroad for longer. Changing with age and the times, I went from backpacking around Europe to flashpacking (backpack on wheels) in Southeast Asia and South America. Solo motorcycle trips up, down, and across North America evolved into trips for two, with Cathryn joining me on the Harley.

I’d found my life partner, with similar tastes in music, food, travel and life itself. Once Cathryn retired, the world was ours to discover. And at that we’re doing our best. For us, seeing new places and experiencing different cuisine and culture is what life in is all about. Being financially secure, our only travel limitation seem to be there as so many places to visit and not enough time to see them all.

I have a travelling friend who emigrated from Canada to Cambodia, where he settled and started a family. As a fellow traveller, he often sought out places off the beaten path that hadn’t been discovered by the masses or had fallen victim to overtourism. Up until about twenty years ago, I hadn’t found crowds to be a problem in my travels to other countries around the world. For the most part, tourists seemed to be happy sticking with the tried and true destinations where everyone else had been or was going.

But the world truly has gotten smaller, with more people venturing further away from home, seeking out exotic places they’ve seen on television or on the Internet. Places that were once considered off the beaten path or undiscovered by the masses. Hoards of vacationers and travellers alike have taken to road, rail and air, in search of cool places they had only previously dreamed of.

Now that the masses have converged on those very places, destinations have become overcrowded and almost unbearable to travellers and locals alike. For us it means higher prices or limited availability for transportation and lodging. For them it means hoards of travellers invading their home towns and neighborhoods. Where tourism was once good for local economies, it is now taxing public services and infrastructure.

Cathryn and I witnessed such a mass invasion firsthand in Dubrovnik, Croatia, a once small fishing village made famous by the Game of Thrones tv series. We were enjoying a quiet stroll along the top of the city walls when we saw a cruise ship pull into the harbour. By the time we came down from the wall, the small medieval town had been invaded by five thousand tourists, all trying to find famous sites they’s seen on the tube.

People from the cruise ships pay good money for those types of excursions. I had to laugh when I saw hungry tourists scouring the old town trying to discover the magical places they saw on their favorite show. The group was disappointed when their tour guide explained how almost every backdrop they’d seen on tv was computer generated.

We are currently in Italy where crowds have varied from town to town. We chose the shoulder season – September and October, purposely to avoid the masses. But that wasn’t the case in Verona, where we’d considered seeing the famous ‘Juliette’ balcony. Although the character and story are fictional, it doesn’t stop thousands of tourists from reserving a spot online in advance to visit the site and have a chance at rubbing a breast on her statue for good luck.

We did not see the balcony or broze-breasted statue, but did manage a peak at the alley leading to it from our city tour bus, surrounded by thousands of tourists. What’s really funny, besides the love story being fictional, is that Shakespeare basically plagiarized the tale from other poets. It’s also never been proven he actually set foot in Verona, let alone Italy.

So, if you plan to travel, beware of mass tourism. Venice doesn’t allow cruise ships in the harbour anymore and charges by the day to enter the city. Locals have complained their neighborhoods are now full of foreigners staying in rentals. Santorini, Greece becomes gridlocked when several thousand cruise ship tourists try to cram into the tiny fishing village to get that perfect selfie.

Barcelona and Malaga, Spain, are now passing bylaws to limit the number of vacation rentals in heavily travelled tourist destinations. Perhaps this comes as a result of post Covid travellers trying to make up for lost time, but I think not. It seems to me more and more people in the world now have itchy feet and have discovered their dreams and wanderlust can become reality.

Monster – Jonathan Kellerman

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Jonathan Kellerman Set (Monster, The Web, When The Bough Breaks)
by Jonathan Kellerman

Edmond Gagnon‘s review Aug 18, 2024  

This novel is a slow-starter and a bit of a yawner…taking over 300 pages before Detective Milos Sturgis and Dr. Alex Delaware latch on to what seems like a viable lead.
As usual with this pair, there is way to much speculating and theorizing between them while trying to piece together murder details and possible suspects.
I’m also not a fan of excessive fluff…long-winded descriptions of every person and place in the story.
But the plot is a decent one that starts with one gruesome murder, then two, and what later becomes a trail of bodies left behind by a sadistic serial killer.
Not Kellerman’s best in my opinion, Monster is worth the read but I wouldn’t rush to put in on the top of your reading list.

On Dangerous Ground – Jack Higgins

On Dangerous Ground (Sean Dillon #3)
by Jack Higgins

Edmond Gagnon‘s review, Jul 05, 2024  

I like Jack Higgins writing style and enjoyed this story but have tired of characters like Sean Dillon, the spy or ex-soldier of some type with all the special skills necessary to save the world.
At least this tale is of a different sort, tying past with present, while trying to locate a lost artifact that could change the political fate of at least one country, let alone the financial interests of other countries and criminal enterprises as well.
There’s enough action to keep readers turning pages, and although I felt they were predictable, a few plot twists made the story more interesting.

Melaque/Barra Restaurants – Part 2

For Part 2 of this years list of area restaurants, Cathryn and I and some friends have visited the following restaurants in the past month. I’ve attached links for additional information, and as always, opinions are solely ours. One thing we’ve noticed this season, and it shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone else, is that prices have gone up substantially.

Bistro Escondido – This hideaway has been around as long as we’ve been coming to Melaque, in one form or another. Cathryn and I actually stayed in the upstairs apartment for a few years. The cozy restaurant is off the beaten path, under a shady palapa, poolside. The menu is limited with what have come to be favorites of patrons who return regularly. Try the black & blue burger, fish & chips, or the assorted tapas. Sunday brunch is also popular, with an artisan market and music.

La Palma Negra – Definitely off the beaten path, on Coco Beach on the far side of Barra, Cathryn and I have voted this little place the best for coconut shrimp. Plump, fresh, and delicious. I once tackled one of their giant burgers and still have the stretch marks to prove it. Guacamole, ceviche, nachos, octopus…it’s all good. They have entertainment and you can even stay in a little beach hut beside a lazy river and pool. There are also turtle releases next door.

Chavakia – One of my occasional go-to places on my morning walks, this quiet spot offers one of the heathiest menus I’ve seen yet. Fresh fruit juices and smoothies, granola and yogurt, salads, and pancakes, waffles or French toast for those with a sweet tooth. They also offer plenty of other breakfast items like eggs benny, divorced eggs and omelets. Prices are very reasonable.

Moon – Offering the best view in Melaque, this restaurant should be packed every night. On the top floor of the new Casa Leon building at the west end of town, Moon was originally touted as upscale, a place where you could put on your Sunday go to meeting clothes for a night out. They still offer a selection of good steaks but have resorted to 2 for 1 specials to bring in diners. We did the burger night and were not impressed. Giving them another chance, we went with a group of 8 for dinner, having filets and rib eyes, ribs, fish n chips and pasta. Everyone was pretty happy with their meals.

Los Cocos – We happened on this beach restaurant by chance when Las Hamacas was filled up for a Bandidos performance. Located next door, we could hear the music and still carry on a conversation. We only had a light lunch there, a burrito, nachos, and a clubhouse. All were good portions and better than expected. the dinner menu looked good and they were prepping sections of pork for the barbeque that evening.

La Chinita – Chinese food in Mexico? Sure, why not, for a change? Li Xie, a little Chinese firecracker, owns and runs the restaurant, cooking most of the home made specialties herself. Fresh spring and egg rolls, meat and veggie dishes, assorted rice and great wonton soup with juicy and plump noodles. The restaurant is on the highway, across from Pemex and not the best of locations but the food makes up for it. They also deliver.

Colimilla – There’s a group of 5 restaurants – Mary’s, Lilly’s, Fortinos, Colimlla, and one other I can’t think of at the moment. To me they’re all about the same – waterfront eateries offering the same fare, mostly seafood and Mexican dishes, with some specialties. The quickest way to reach any of these places is to hop on one of their water taxi’s that will take you across the bay, behind the Grand Bay Resort, which borders the town of Colimilla. You can also drive around, taking the road to Isla de Navidad off the highway, just east of Barra.

Pechacane – Arguably the best pizza in Melaque or Barra, depending on whether or not you like normal or thin crust pizza. Cathryn and I liked this place before but now they have a new chef and expanded menu that includes lasagna’s, pastas, and even fish n chips. Our friend had the lasagna, a portion large enough for 2. The noodles were light and fluffy, the Bolognese meat sauce extraordinary – probably because it’s the chef’s grandmother’s recipe. She was from Bologna, Italy. Our pizzas were great.

Titos/Livys – There’s not much of a Facebook page but anyone who’s spent any time in Melaque knows about Titos, or now Livy’s next door. There is always some kind of entertainment at one of these beach bars, and being next door to each other gives patrons room to spread out and enjoy the music or food at either establishment. Tito is known for his 2 for 1 drinks and strong margaritas. We’ve been hit and miss on the food but most times the pub grub is pretty good. We do miss the pizza ovens.

Chantli Mare – If you want to go for a little drive, perhaps to visit the crocodiles in La Manzanilla, continue along the beach road for a couple miles and watch for the sign and gate to Chantli Mare. It’s a beach restaurant and more, offering seaside rooms for the night. The cuisine is French/Vietnamese/Mexican fusion with all the usual entrees plus some unique surprises. There is a bar, pool, patio and beach tables, and probably the nicest banos on the beach.

There are plenty more good places to eat in the Melaque/Barra area so don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone and try some of these places. Buen provecho!

The Dark Hours – Michael Connelly

The Dark Hours (Renée Ballard, #4; Harry Bosch, #23; Harry Bosch Universe, #36) by Michael Connelly (Goodreads Author)

Edmond Gagnon‘s review – Feb 09, 2024 

I gave this book four stars but I feel it was only worth 3.5.
There is nothing wrong with the story and perhaps I was less impressed because the protagonist was mostly Renee Ballard, not my favorite Connelly character.
Technically, it’s a Renee Ballard and Harry Bosch novel but the latter only makes a limited appearance later in the story as the female detective’s backup.
In The Dark Hours, Ballard juggles two cases, murder and rape, but struggles with everyone else in the “new L.A.P.D.” to get the job done. Of course, she can always count on retired Detective Harry Bosch for help.
The story picks up pace as Ballard bounces between the two cases, and then races to the finish line to wrap up all the bad guys in messy finale.

The Forgotten – David Baldacci

The Forgotten (John Puller, #2)
by 

David Baldacci (Goodreads Author)

Edmond Gagnon‘s review Jan 25, 2024 

I like Baldacci’s style and his character John Puller, in my opinion his version of Lee Child’s Jack Reacher. Both men have military experience and the same moral compass when it comes to helping people and doing what’s right.
The Forgotten has become an all-to-familiar tale of human trafficking at it’s worst. In this case it’s the rich getter richer by stealing the poor from their homes, threatening their families, and selling them off as slaves.
That’s the story in a nutshell but there’s lots of intrigue and action, John Puller style.
The Forgotten is a good read.

The Gods of Guilt – Michael Connelly

The Gods of Guilt (The Lincoln Lawyer, #5; Harry Bosch Universe, #25)
by Michael Connelly (Goodreads Author)

Edmond Gagnon‘s review – Jan 16, 2024 

Michael Connelly has become my favorite author, mostly for his Harry Bosch series but I do like the Lincoln Lawyer series as well. Especially when there are little crossovers between the two protagonists who are half brothers.
Like some of the best lawyers I know personally, Michael Haller is not perfect and has his own life issues to handle while he does his best to represent his clients, guilty or not.
Although mostly predictable, The Gods of Guilt is jam-packed with courtroom action and a few little surprises that Haller pulls out of his magic hat.
This story didn’t knock my socks off but was a very good read.

The Concrete Blonde – Harry Bosch

The Concrete Blonde (Harry Bosch, #3; Harry Bosch Universe, #3) by Michael Connelly (Goodreads Author)

Edmond Gagnon‘s review Nov 24, 2023  

I’ve missed Harry Bosch.
Although this is an older title, I haven’t stumbled across one of Michael Connelly’s cop stories in a while. I’ve been able to get my Bosch fix through streaming both that series and the Lincoln Lawyer.

This book has Harry all twisted inside-out, having him involved in a big civil suit launched against him for taking out a serial killer. Then, while the trial is going on, a note appears that shows there might be a copycat killer or that Harry killed the wrong man.

Add in Bosch’s lates romance that he is trying to cling to…and various suspects he tracks down only to find he’s got the wrong guy, and The Concrete Blonde is a fast-paced read with lots of twists and turns that keeps you guessing to the end.

Echoes in Eternity – Street Cop Stories

Echoes in Eternity: Street Cop Stories
by James Disser

Edmond Gagnon‘s review Oct 15, 2023  

I didn’t find this book all that interesting, perhaps because I also worked the streets for over 31 years and lived the same stories.
Having said that, Disser offers a real look into the types of calls and crimes that police officers face on a daily basis.
As an author, I think this former cop fell into the same trap I did with my first book, telling his tales as if writing a police report,without much emotion. Not that the individual stories weren’t inciteful for most people, they just lacked enough feeling to drag readers into the events he related.
For anyone who wants a real-life account of what happens during a variety of police investigations, this book is a good example.

Gran Turismo – The Movie

It seems that movie makers have finally gotten back to putting good films back into movie theatres and Gran Turismo is exactly that. But is it a movie about a video game or car racing? Turns out it’s a movie about both. Cathryn and I were skeptical when we heard about this one, both being clueless about simulated racing video games. Our fears were short-lived.

In a nutshell, Gran Turismo is something played by ‘gamers’. But in this case, Nissan runs a contest to see who the best ‘sim-racer’ is, in the hopes of putting him or her behind the wheel of one of their real life race cars. The challenge seems impossible to all but the promoter, played by Orlando Bloom, the only big name actor in the movie.

Based on a true story, Nissan selects contest winners from around the world and sends them to race car training camp. From that point on this flick is a Cinderella story. There are some suspected pitfalls and other pleasant surprises that easily keep the audience interested.

If you’re a gamer or racing enthusiast, this movie is for you. The special effects in both worlds is high octane action, where you can almost feel the excitement and g-forces the young drivers experience. It’s hard to believe this story really happened and you should see it for yourself. Cathryn and I both loved it and each give it a 10 out of 10.