Venice – Most Unique City in the World

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn TravelLeave a comment

I will do my best to describe the City of Venice and what’s it’s like, but I believe it is one place in the world you should experience yourself to truly understand and enjoy just how unique it really is. Cathryn and I have both been there before but we loved it enough to visit once again for her 60th birthday year. Our plan for this trip was to skip the heavily trafficked touristy sites and take in the outer islands of Torcino, Burano and Murano.

If we stay more than one night in any location I try to book something with a kitchen, such as an Airbnb or something on VRBO so my personal chef can prepare some of our meals in. This worked well for us since breakfasts in Italy consist of pastries and coffee, one of which is bad for my waistline and the other something I’ve never consumed. Lunches were usually some type of ham sandwich while we were out exploring.

Although my chef prepared some awesome pasta dinners in, we ate many of our dinners out. Pasta and pizza are available everywhere and usually the cheaper way to go. Seafood dinners were also easy to find but many were pricey for us since 1 Euro is equal to about $1.40 Canadian. Thankfully, food tax is virtually non-existent and tipping is not customary in Italy. But many restaurants charge a 2-3 Euro service fee to make up the difference.

Venice. Some call it the floating city but it’s actually built on reclaimed land in a lagoon, on thousands and thousands of wood pilings. It explains the lack of trees. Experts blamed those same foundations as the reason for Venice’s sinking but it’s now been discovered they’ve drained underground aquifers for centuries to get drinking water, causing the city to sink. Higher sea levels and advancing tides also invade the city, meaning Venice’s life expectancy is limited.

Venice. You won’t experience such a unique city anywhere else in the world. Once a place where people in the 5th century fled to avoid Barbarian conquerors, it later became a major trading hub for fish and salt and by the 9th century it had become a major maritime empire. Arriving in Venice by the Grand Canal, which snakes it’s way through the center of the city, you can still witness the magnificent palaces and buildings showcasing Venetian prosperity.

Nowadays, Venice makes it’s money from mass tourism. It’s gotten so bad that the city had forbidden large cruise ships and they charge a visitation/tourist tax. But it’s still a really cool place to visit, especially if you like history, ancient Byzantine and Baroque architecture, palaces, churches, canals, and Italian food.

Try to imagine a place where there are no front lawns, only water. No cars or trucks. You get everywhere by foot or boat. Even mass transportation is by waterbus, called vaporettos. Those with deep pockets can hire beautifully varnished watercraft, and some locals own their own boats to get around. Everything in Venice moves by water and the canals – people, food, and garbage.

The city is known for it’s gondolas, a hand-crafted canoe of sorts that has become a must-do thing for visiting tourists. The boats costs thousands of dollars to build and gondoliers go through a 4 year training course to master their trade. Some serenade their fares while rowing and weaving their way through various canals. Our apartment overlooked one canal and we watched wide-eyed tourists and even wedding parties go by. It was way better than the cars and trucks that roared by daily at our last place.

Our plan to visit the outer islands made for a perfect visit. We took the vaporetto to Torcello first, a little over an hour away but well worth the trip. Leaving at a popular time of day, our boat was quite packed until the last leg. The island is where it all began, where the Venetians started to build in the lagoon. The cathedral was built in the 7th century and is one of the oldest churches is Italy. Exploring the island left me puzzled, trying to figure out how 20,000 people once lived there. Now there are only 12.

Burano was our next island stop and it completely blew us away. It is easily the most colourful place we’ve ever visited – houses, shops and buildings are all stuccoed or painted in various pastel colours, making neighborhoods look like rows of saltwater taffy. Like the main Venice island, Burano also has canals and plenty of pedestrian only streets to explore. For Cathryn and I, it is our favorite Venetian island.

We visited the island of Murano too but were hard-pressed to be wowed after seeing Burano. But if you’re into hand-crafted Venetian glassware, Murano is the place to go. There are several glass blowing factories to visit and hundreds of stores selling everything from fancy chandeliers to miniature glass ballerinas. The glassware is impressive but the canals and buildings are similar in size and construction to those scattered across the City of Venice.

I conclusion, having been to Venice myself on two previous occasions I wasn’t too excited to see it again. But just as it was on my very first visit, the city grows on you. The heavily-trafficked touristy sites are definitely worth seeing for the first time. But the back streets (like the Jewish Ghetto) take you back in time, where neighbours gathered in piazzas or courtyards. Children without electronic devices, boys playing football and girls skipping rope. Men gathered to drink coffee or beer and women working in the kitchen sending wonderful aromas out the window to passerby.

Garda – Italy’s Largest Lake

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Book Reviews, TravelLeave a comment

Italy is a large country with several beautiful regions to explore. Cathryn and I have been mostly exploring the northern regions and more specifically on the first part of this trip, Lake Garda. It’s the largest of Italy’s lakes, situated in the north and fed by some of the meltwater from the Swiss and Italian Alps. We’d covered much of Lake Como on our last Italian visit but this time we planned to explore Garda and it’s surrounding medieval towns.

We chose the town of Garda as a base, situated on the eastern shore of the lower half of the lake, with plenty of other towns close enough to explore with simple day trips by ferry or bus. Garda Town was the perfect size for us, easily walkable and fun to explore with cobbled pedestrian-only streets, some of which linked piazzas with tunnels under ancient buildings.

Garda has plenty of restaurants serving all sorts of foods, mostly specializing in seafood, pasta and pizza. Funny, no matter what kind of a menu they offer, every single eatery serves pizza. That includes focaccia and bruschetta-sized pizza so budget-minded travellers can afford reasonably priced meals. Most costs were similarly priced to home, more compatible to the American dollar since it is almost at par with the Euro.

Cathyn tells me that prices for clothes and genuine Italian leather goods are way more reasonable than in major tourist centers like Rome or Naples or the Amalfi coast. Ferry tickets between towns on the lake got pricey for longer distances, like the Town of Limone which is at the top of the lake and two hours away. The train stops at Peschiera, on the bottom of the lake so you have to rely on lake ferries or local buses. Taxis and even Uber are very expensive.

There are plenty of walking or hiking paths in the area, with some other towns easily reached on foot. We walked along the lake to Bardolino and then to the cool little town of San Vigilio, where we witnessed a Calvin Klein photoshoot. Both were easy lakeside walks, reachable in about 45 minutes. We also took the ferry to Lazise, Torri del Benaco and Sirmione, all within an hour or so boat ride. Because of heavy road traffic around the lake, the ferries are much more punctual than buses.

One might think that all medieval towns are the same – you’ve seen one castle town – you’ve seen them all, but we found it wasn’t so. Each town was unique in it’s own way, some walled in by an old fortress and some showcasing their castle as a historic old town centerpiece. Crowds were heavier than we expected for the so-called shoulder season, with getting around much easier early or late in the day. I can’t even imagine how crazy it would be here in summer.

People all over the world visit Italy and Lake Garda, but we found this is the time of year when 80% of tourists are German. And oddly enough, those we encountered were the they most arrogant and rude people we’ve ever met. More so than any Germans we know or have met in Germany. They blatantly cut queues for the ferry or bus, sometimes shoving their way through, and they thought nothing of smoking at a table 10 inches away while eating meals. Never did they offer an excuse me or hello or even a smile.

We had a mixed bag of weather, with a few more clouds and rain that normal, but we managed and only had to don a raincoat or umbrella a couple times. It was sporadic – we had a picture perfect day in Torri del Benaco, while friends we met got rained on all day in another town only 10 miles away. Temperatures were comfortable, depending on sun or cloud, anywhere between 15 to 25 degrees day or night.

If you like lakeside retreats, mountain views, historic small towns with medieval sites all within a couple hours of each other, put Lake Garda on your bucket list. We also visited Verona, only about an hour from Garda Town, but that’s another story.

Mass Tourism – Us vs Them

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Book Reviews, TravelLeave a comment

Mass tourism has become a taxing and ugly thing for many countries, cities, and famous sites around the world. With the advent of the Internet, they say the world has become a smaller place. Add the ease of air travel and other modes of transportation along with human curiosity, and one can see why the masses have ventured out from their own backyards to seek out unique and fantastic places to visit.

Cathryn and I were ‘travellers’ long before we met each other. She was lucky enough to do several trips with her family. Mine was larger without the money for that kind of thing but my brother and I managed a trip to Florida with my mother and her boyfriend once we had a job and were able to pay our own way. After securing my career as a police officer, I used my pay cheque for a motorcycle trip back down to the sunshine state.

My wanderlust and thirst for travel continued with trips throughout Canada, the U.S., Europe, Mexico and the Caribbean Islands. I did one cruise because of the unique ports of call but didn’t like scheduled meals and events on board, as well as the process of trying to get hundreds of people on and off the ship every time it docked. We relied on travel agents and ‘packaged’ tours back then, with our absence from work limited by allotted vacation time.

Retirement rewarded me with unlimited time to travel. One or two-week vacations became a month or more, allowing me to venture further abroad for longer. Changing with age and the times, I went from backpacking around Europe to flashpacking (backpack on wheels) in Southeast Asia and South America. Solo motorcycle trips up, down, and across North America evolved into trips for two, with Cathryn joining me on the Harley.

I’d found my life partner, with similar tastes in music, food, travel and life itself. Once Cathryn retired, the world was ours to discover. And at that we’re doing our best. For us, seeing new places and experiencing different cuisine and culture is what life in is all about. Being financially secure, our only travel limitation seem to be there as so many places to visit and not enough time to see them all.

I have a travelling friend who emigrated from Canada to Cambodia, where he settled and started a family. As a fellow traveller, he often sought out places off the beaten path that hadn’t been discovered by the masses or had fallen victim to overtourism. Up until about twenty years ago, I hadn’t found crowds to be a problem in my travels to other countries around the world. For the most part, tourists seemed to be happy sticking with the tried and true destinations where everyone else had been or was going.

But the world truly has gotten smaller, with more people venturing further away from home, seeking out exotic places they’ve seen on television or on the Internet. Places that were once considered off the beaten path or undiscovered by the masses. Hoards of vacationers and travellers alike have taken to road, rail and air, in search of cool places they had only previously dreamed of.

Now that the masses have converged on those very places, destinations have become overcrowded and almost unbearable to travellers and locals alike. For us it means higher prices or limited availability for transportation and lodging. For them it means hoards of travellers invading their home towns and neighborhoods. Where tourism was once good for local economies, it is now taxing public services and infrastructure.

Cathryn and I witnessed such a mass invasion firsthand in Dubrovnik, Croatia, a once small fishing village made famous by the Game of Thrones tv series. We were enjoying a quiet stroll along the top of the city walls when we saw a cruise ship pull into the harbour. By the time we came down from the wall, the small medieval town had been invaded by five thousand tourists, all trying to find famous sites they’s seen on the tube.

People from the cruise ships pay good money for those types of excursions. I had to laugh when I saw hungry tourists scouring the old town trying to discover the magical places they saw on their favorite show. The group was disappointed when their tour guide explained how almost every backdrop they’d seen on tv was computer generated.

We are currently in Italy where crowds have varied from town to town. We chose the shoulder season – September and October, purposely to avoid the masses. But that wasn’t the case in Verona, where we’d considered seeing the famous ‘Juliette’ balcony. Although the character and story are fictional, it doesn’t stop thousands of tourists from reserving a spot online in advance to visit the site and have a chance at rubbing a breast on her statue for good luck.

We did not see the balcony or broze-breasted statue, but did manage a peak at the alley leading to it from our city tour bus, surrounded by thousands of tourists. What’s really funny, besides the love story being fictional, is that Shakespeare basically plagiarized the tale from other poets. It’s also never been proven he actually set foot in Verona, let alone Italy.

So, if you plan to travel, beware of mass tourism. Venice doesn’t allow cruise ships in the harbour anymore and charges by the day to enter the city. Locals have complained their neighborhoods are now full of foreigners staying in rentals. Santorini, Greece becomes gridlocked when several thousand cruise ship tourists try to cram into the tiny fishing village to get that perfect selfie.

Barcelona and Malaga, Spain, are now passing bylaws to limit the number of vacation rentals in heavily travelled tourist destinations. Perhaps this comes as a result of post Covid travellers trying to make up for lost time, but I think not. It seems to me more and more people in the world now have itchy feet and have discovered their dreams and wanderlust can become reality.

Monster – Jonathan Kellerman

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Book ReviewsLeave a comment

Version 1.0.0

Jonathan Kellerman Set (Monster, The Web, When The Bough Breaks)
by Jonathan Kellerman

Edmond Gagnon‘s review Aug 18, 2024  

This novel is a slow-starter and a bit of a yawner…taking over 300 pages before Detective Milos Sturgis and Dr. Alex Delaware latch on to what seems like a viable lead.
As usual with this pair, there is way to much speculating and theorizing between them while trying to piece together murder details and possible suspects.
I’m also not a fan of excessive fluff…long-winded descriptions of every person and place in the story.
But the plot is a decent one that starts with one gruesome murder, then two, and what later becomes a trail of bodies left behind by a sadistic serial killer.
Not Kellerman’s best in my opinion, Monster is worth the read but I wouldn’t rush to put in on the top of your reading list.

On Dangerous Ground – Jack Higgins

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Book ReviewsLeave a comment

On Dangerous Ground (Sean Dillon #3)
by Jack Higgins

Edmond Gagnon‘s review, Jul 05, 2024  

I like Jack Higgins writing style and enjoyed this story but have tired of characters like Sean Dillon, the spy or ex-soldier of some type with all the special skills necessary to save the world.
At least this tale is of a different sort, tying past with present, while trying to locate a lost artifact that could change the political fate of at least one country, let alone the financial interests of other countries and criminal enterprises as well.
There’s enough action to keep readers turning pages, and although I felt they were predictable, a few plot twists made the story more interesting.

Horizon – An American Saga

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn EntertainmentLeave a comment

Being July 4th, America’s Independence Day, I thought it appropriate to post my review of Kevin Costner’s latest movie, Horizon – An American Saga. Yellowstone series fans have been wondering why Costner would leave such a lucrative full-time job leading the western television series, and now they have an answer.

Falling back on his high-risk gamble with Dances With Wolves, where he wrote, produced, directed and starred in an epic kind of true-to-life American western movie, Costner has put all his time and money into the Horizon series. Yes, I say series because the movie is done in four parts – probably becoming a ten part mini series once all four installments have left the big screen.

Warning: Horizon is filled with the kind of violence that has never really been portrayed in the typical westerns Hollywood has pumped out in the past. It was so violent that my wife chose to leave the theater less than an hour into the three hour and ten minute movie. If indigenous people of the American west slaughtering white settlers, and mercenary white men killing and scalping native women and children doesn’t bother you, then by all means see the movie.

Horizon is a collection of stories within the story, showcasing the lives of folk from all walks of life who travel to or live in the wild west for one reason or another. Costner’s character doesn’t actually appear until about an hour into the movie. And after trying to digest his character for the three plus hours of film, I was left trying to figure out his goal and real life ambition.

From cowboy and Indian skirmishes, to wagon trains, railway expansions, and promises of free land to those who can make the dangerous journey out west, Horizon gives you an unbiased look into the brutal birth of the American west, how it was invaded and eventually settled. And all the while, the United States is in the middle of it’s civil war, pitting north against south.

I’ve always loved westerns, even those that might not be for the faint-hearted, like Dances With Wolves or Unforgiven. So, I enjoyed the story, cinematography, and action in Horizon. I give the film a 9 out of 10. Cathryn didn’t see enough to rate the movie. So, if you decide to see the flick yourself, load up on popcorn but don’t drink too much – unless you can hold your bladder for 3 hours.

Palma negra Beach Restaurant

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Food & DiningLeave a comment

Our go-to restaurant for the best coconut shrimp on the Costalegre, Palma negra Beach Restaurant is one you have to try in you’re in the Melaque/Barra area. Located on Coco Beach, on the far side of the Grand Bay Resort’s golf course, this hideaway beach restaurant is worth the trip (take the Isla de Navidad/Colimilla road off Hwy 80.

On this occasion we went with a group of ten and everyone ordered something different, mostly indulging in the Thai side of the menu. In our opinion, Maria has some of the best Thai dishes around…pad Thai and assorted curry dishes like mussels in coconut curry sauce and chicken in red curry. She also offers fresh-made appetizers such as spring rolls in rice paper with peanut sauce, guacamole, and of course coconut shrimp.

One of the group raved about the fish tacos and I enjoyed the bacon cheeseburger. Another had the Caesar salad with about a half pound of plump shrimp. Others enjoyed their curried dishes, soup and salads. They also serve a large variety of beverages and cocktails.

Palma negra is a family run business that now rents out a beach bungalow that includes breakfast. They also have a lazy river pool and direct beach access, with a nearby site for turtle releases. It’s best to call ahead or email for reservations since they sometimes have entertainment that draws large crowds, and they close one day a week.

Our group rated Palma negra Beach from 7 to 10 out of 10, with a least a handful of 10’s.

Barra Galeria de Arte & Restaurant 

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Food & DiningLeave a comment

It took us two years to get back to this unique restaurant but we were glad we made it happen. The Galeria is a combination of Art Gallery, Restaurant, and Tequila Tasting Bar. Located on one of the main arteries in Barra de Navidad, you have to poke your head inside the Galeria to truly appreciate everything it has to offer.

Just inside the front door you’ll find unique pieces of aboriginal art, along with various photographic images taken by well-known owner/photographer Robert Hansen. Be sure to check out some of his awesome black & white images on display throughout the gallery and restaurant.

We went for dinner and tequila tasting with a group of six. Reservations are recommended since they aren’t open every day and when they are the restaurant is usually full. Besides wife Rosy’s special dishes, topnotch entertainment might be another reason for the sell-out crowds. Her menu is always limited to two items – one of her chili relleno’s and either meat, fish or shrimp – check their website for specific menus on certain nights.

Our choices were the Shrimp Chili Relleno or Spare Ribs, both found to be delicious by all six in our party. Menu items are a set price but include a surprise appetizer, taste of tequila, cookies, and marshmallows that you can roast on an open campfire. Music is also included and we were treated to Canadian Jazz guitarist, Daren Johnston. His volume was perfect for dinner conversation.

The Galeria is a family run business, with owner Robert hopping from table to table making sure everyone is comfortable and happy. His wife, Rosy, is the cook and all his children either wait on tables, work in the kitchen or tend the tequila bar. I polled the group and the group was split on rating the Galeria between 8 and 9 out of 10.

Melaque/Barra Restaurants – Part 2

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Book Reviews, Food & DiningLeave a comment

For Part 2 of this years list of area restaurants, Cathryn and I and some friends have visited the following restaurants in the past month. I’ve attached links for additional information, and as always, opinions are solely ours. One thing we’ve noticed this season, and it shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone else, is that prices have gone up substantially.

Bistro Escondido – This hideaway has been around as long as we’ve been coming to Melaque, in one form or another. Cathryn and I actually stayed in the upstairs apartment for a few years. The cozy restaurant is off the beaten path, under a shady palapa, poolside. The menu is limited with what have come to be favorites of patrons who return regularly. Try the black & blue burger, fish & chips, or the assorted tapas. Sunday brunch is also popular, with an artisan market and music.

La Palma Negra – Definitely off the beaten path, on Coco Beach on the far side of Barra, Cathryn and I have voted this little place the best for coconut shrimp. Plump, fresh, and delicious. I once tackled one of their giant burgers and still have the stretch marks to prove it. Guacamole, ceviche, nachos, octopus…it’s all good. They have entertainment and you can even stay in a little beach hut beside a lazy river and pool. There are also turtle releases next door.

Chavakia – One of my occasional go-to places on my morning walks, this quiet spot offers one of the heathiest menus I’ve seen yet. Fresh fruit juices and smoothies, granola and yogurt, salads, and pancakes, waffles or French toast for those with a sweet tooth. They also offer plenty of other breakfast items like eggs benny, divorced eggs and omelets. Prices are very reasonable.

Moon – Offering the best view in Melaque, this restaurant should be packed every night. On the top floor of the new Casa Leon building at the west end of town, Moon was originally touted as upscale, a place where you could put on your Sunday go to meeting clothes for a night out. They still offer a selection of good steaks but have resorted to 2 for 1 specials to bring in diners. We did the burger night and were not impressed. Giving them another chance, we went with a group of 8 for dinner, having filets and rib eyes, ribs, fish n chips and pasta. Everyone was pretty happy with their meals.

Los Cocos – We happened on this beach restaurant by chance when Las Hamacas was filled up for a Bandidos performance. Located next door, we could hear the music and still carry on a conversation. We only had a light lunch there, a burrito, nachos, and a clubhouse. All were good portions and better than expected. the dinner menu looked good and they were prepping sections of pork for the barbeque that evening.

La Chinita – Chinese food in Mexico? Sure, why not, for a change? Li Xie, a little Chinese firecracker, owns and runs the restaurant, cooking most of the home made specialties herself. Fresh spring and egg rolls, meat and veggie dishes, assorted rice and great wonton soup with juicy and plump noodles. The restaurant is on the highway, across from Pemex and not the best of locations but the food makes up for it. They also deliver.

Colimilla – There’s a group of 5 restaurants – Mary’s, Lilly’s, Fortinos, Colimlla, and one other I can’t think of at the moment. To me they’re all about the same – waterfront eateries offering the same fare, mostly seafood and Mexican dishes, with some specialties. The quickest way to reach any of these places is to hop on one of their water taxi’s that will take you across the bay, behind the Grand Bay Resort, which borders the town of Colimilla. You can also drive around, taking the road to Isla de Navidad off the highway, just east of Barra.

Pechacane – Arguably the best pizza in Melaque or Barra, depending on whether or not you like normal or thin crust pizza. Cathryn and I liked this place before but now they have a new chef and expanded menu that includes lasagna’s, pastas, and even fish n chips. Our friend had the lasagna, a portion large enough for 2. The noodles were light and fluffy, the Bolognese meat sauce extraordinary – probably because it’s the chef’s grandmother’s recipe. She was from Bologna, Italy. Our pizzas were great.

Titos/Livys – There’s not much of a Facebook page but anyone who’s spent any time in Melaque knows about Titos, or now Livy’s next door. There is always some kind of entertainment at one of these beach bars, and being next door to each other gives patrons room to spread out and enjoy the music or food at either establishment. Tito is known for his 2 for 1 drinks and strong margaritas. We’ve been hit and miss on the food but most times the pub grub is pretty good. We do miss the pizza ovens.

Chantli Mare – If you want to go for a little drive, perhaps to visit the crocodiles in La Manzanilla, continue along the beach road for a couple miles and watch for the sign and gate to Chantli Mare. It’s a beach restaurant and more, offering seaside rooms for the night. The cuisine is French/Vietnamese/Mexican fusion with all the usual entrees plus some unique surprises. There is a bar, pool, patio and beach tables, and probably the nicest banos on the beach.

There are plenty more good places to eat in the Melaque/Barra area so don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone and try some of these places. Buen provecho!

Moon – Tapas Bar & Restaurant

On By Author Edmond GagnonIn Food & DiningLeave a comment

In my opinion, the Moon Restaurant in Melaque is still trying to find its niche. The name alone is misleading since there are no tapas to be had there. Considered upscale by those in town who visit the rooftop restaurant above the Casa Leon with the best view on the bay, they’ve taken to offering 2 for 1 nights by offering burgers, ribs and shrimp.

Our first visit this season was to try the cheap burger night. It was too crowded and ingredients on the burgers were scaled down to make up for the discount. Mine had an uncooked piece of bacon about the size of a postage stamp. Called the American burger there was only a light sprinkling of white cheese instead of cheddar. On the flip side, friends went for rib night and came away happy campers.

To be fair, we returned to the Moon last night with a group of eight. We lucked out and were served by Ricardo, in my opinion the classiest waiter in Melaque. Two orders of tuna tartar were shared by the table and the consensus was it was too salty and limey. We ordered ribs, filets, ribeye’s, fish ‘n chips, and the blush fettucine with shrimp for our entrees.

The ribs were fall off the bone, juicy and meaty. The filets were huge and cooked perfectly. There were no complaints from the two rib eye eaters. The fish was lightly battered and served with home cut fries. My pasta was tasty but just slightly overcooked, leaving the sauce a bit dry. There was enough of the filets left over for doggy bags.

No one was up for dessert but there was a birthday boy among us who received a complimentary piece of red velvet cake, topped by a sparkler and song to boot. So, if you just want to stuff your face for a good price, try one of the 2 for 1 nights. But if you want a good meal go on a week night when it is quieter and the full menu is available.

As a group, we rated the Moon an 8 out of 10.